Friday, March 11, 2011

Fall 2011 Fashion Week: Milan


Peter Dundas continues to make Pucci relevant, creating glamorous clothes for the modern woman.  His fall collections's jewel-tone purples and greens were right on trend, and the sex appeal of Dundas's body conscious cuts was amped up with dramatic portrait necklines.  The tradition of beautiful Pucci prints was reimagined through embroidery and velvet burnouts, and sometimes accented with fringe.  Dundas introduced some elegant separates, but his strength lies in dressmaking--I expect to see several of these gowns and cocktail dresses on red carpets.


Dominico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana bucked the '60s and '70s trends found on the majority of fall runways, choosing instead to channel the '80s.  Their collection featured loud, colorful prints created from lettering, which was most successful on their softer sheer pieces.  The designers kept everything lighthearted and youthful--I'm convinced that wearing these clothes would put you in a good mood.  My only quibble with the collection is the styling.  The wedge sneakers and alphabet necklaces were fun, but the whole collection would have looked much more polished with pumps and more sophisticated jewelry.


Donatella Versace went clean and graphic for fall.  She showed less of her usual overt sexiness, choosing instead to focus on laser sharp military-inspired cuts and to pull from Versace heritage for embellishments.  The signature Versace leaf and flower emblem were magnified, rendered in bold color, and featured on a series of black crepe dresses.  Gold buckles and buttons also echoed Versace tradition, and contributed to the militaristic feel.  Although I miss the usual showstopping gowns, I was impressed by Donatella's strong focus in this collection.

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